Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Behavior and Basic Etiquette in Bali


Behavior and Basic Etiquette

The View of the water lilies and reflection of palms in the pond

Behavior: During one of the early Orientation sessions we will re-read the Conditions of Participation that you signed before joining the SIT experience. While we know that you read carefully and understood those Conditions of Participation before coming to Indonesia, from a number of past experiences both here and elsewhere in Asia it is clear that we need to strongly emphasize several major points:

·      Participation in an SIT Program means abiding 100% by the prohibition on driving a motorized vehicle of any kind. While most infractions against rules on behavior can be dealt with on a “warning” or “probationary” basis, in the case of anyone seen or known to be driving a motorized vehicle, the sanction is expulsion. Please take this prohibition very, very seriously. It is based not only on insurance requirements, but on the extreme dangers related to driving a motor vehicle or motorcycle in Indonesia. (It is also very important to keep in mind the unsafe conditions for pedestrians in many areas and to act with appropriate caution when walking on or near public thoroughfares.)

·      Participating in scuba diving activities is also prohibited so long as you are on the program, even if you are certified.

·      Recently the issue of using Hindu symbols for advertising or cosmetic purposes has become a very heated area of debate in Bali. For this reason we must now prohibit students from using any symbol that could be construed as Hindu as a tattoo or decoration for a t-shirt (for example). While we cannot prohibit tattooing, we strongly urge you to consider the life-long duration of any tattoo, and the possible health hazards at stake.

·      Dress code: as noted in the Packing Guidelines we have a dress code for classroom attendance and excursions to any formal institution. Please work with us to do your part to live with the dress code and make the most of it. Being neat is part of being Indonesian (though you may find occasional counter-examples among Indonesian youth, and definitely will see countless examples among the “ragged tourists”!).

·      Homestay and Orientation Period “curfew” hours: While staying in the Puri Saraswati in Amlapura it is expected that you will all return to the Puri by 10:00 PM unless you have made a prior arrangement with the AD, or with Gung De of Puri Saraswati. During the Homestay Period please keep in mind that Homestay families feel responsible for you, often in more protective ways than you may be accustomed to. If you plan to stay out past 9:00 PM with your friends we ask that you inform your family of the fact, and tell them which of your classmates you will be with so that they can track you down through another Homestay family if any emergency arises. Their understanding is that your curfew on week nights is 10:00 PM. Please be aware that staying out of your Homestay family household overnight during weekdays is not allowed unless you have made an appropriate arrangement with your Homestay family. If you have any doubts check with the AD.

Harassment Issues: We will discuss interpersonal relations extensively during the Orientation Period. It is also important to keep in mind that the Academic Director and other staff are there for you to talk to at any time of day or night should a harassment (or health or safety) issue come up. In general, and from past experience, harassment from Balinese men is verbal only in the overwhelming majority of cases. In the long history of SIT Programs in Bali there have been only 2-3 cases where harassment went beyond the verbal stage, and even then was mild by western standards. This does not mean that verbal harassment cannot be an unpleasant fact of life; however, as with most aspects of Balinese behavior it is best reacted to with humor and good-will rather than anger. In a few cases you may need to raise your voice or take other obvious action to defer unwanted advances; if this is the case, you should not feel in any way embarrassed by having to go against the normal pattern of public deference.

A related issue to harassment is the question of cross-cultural dating. This is a largely one-sided matter, with the availability of willing Balinese male partners for western women quite high, but a very low chance that a young Indonesian woman would feel comfortable initiating a relationship with a western man, unless – and with the clear understanding – that marriage is the expected result. 

 While the AD has no brief to “police” the possible development of cross-cultural dating, we can and will ask that you practice appropriate care and discretion, both for your own sake and for the sake of the program and the community. We will discuss the effects that cross-cultural dating has on gender issues in Bali during the semester, and will try to bring out some of the aspects of unequal power and wealth involved. These are complex issues, and not to be taken lightly. At the same time we (the AD) are not here to make decisions for you, but rather to provide guidance where possible, so do not hesitate to consult with us when a question arises. 

Basic Etiquette: Politeness and correct behavior play a very large role in Balinese/Indonesian life. We will be devoting a fair amount of time to these subjects during the Orientation Period. Below we will also summarize some of the main points:

·      Don’t worry about making mistakes. While the Balinese will definitely notice and appreciate you for polite and respectful behavior, they are also very forgiving and realize that you are NOT Balinese and cannot be expected to know everything right from the start  Also, you are quite likely to come across counter-examples in Balinese behavior that appear to directly contradict some of the guidelines.   What’s most important is to be attentive to how people around you are relating, and relax, smile and enjoy your encounters!

·      Body language and spatial orientation:  Nowadays many people shake hands when they meet.  However, it is not the American pump handshake, but more gentle and quick. Do not interpret this as meaning that people are not overjoyed in meeting you. Remember that shaking hands is not the traditional way of greeting. Nowadays the Indian “akawin greeting”, putting hands together in a prayer position at chest level is becoming more and more popular.

·      ALWAYS use your right hand in giving and receiving.  The left hand is used for sanitary matters. If you’re eating something with your right hand or it is otherwise occupied and you have to use your left hand to take or give something, it is polite to say ma’af tangan kiri, ”excuse me for using my left hand”. However, most Indonesians are very tolerant, and will not be offended if you don’t add these polite phrases. It is important, however, to remember to avoid giving or receiving with your left hand.

·      Pointing with your forefinger is considered rude. When gesturing for someone to come towards you, don’t crook your hand with fingers pointing up, but rather wave your palm, fingers pointing down.  When you are talking to someone, don’t put your hands on your hips with your elbows akimbo – it’s taken as a stance of defiance.

·      Indonesians are often very “touchy-feely” with members of their own sex and it is quite common for either young women or young men to walk down the street arm in arm, or to sleep together hugging each other. However, you won’t see much public display of affection between members of the opposite sex, even among newly weds.

·      As in many Asian cultures, the head is considered the most sacred part of the body.  Therefore, touching someone on the head or tousling their hair (even a child’s) is often considered unacceptable.  Conversely, the feet are the least sacred part of the body and should never be pointed at anyone.  When sitting on the ground, sit either cross-legged or tuck your feet under you.

·      Spatial orientation is a critical feature of Balinese life.  Directions are based on the location of Mt. Agung, the sacred mountain in the center of the island (actually more northeast).  In south Bali, north is called kaja, or “toward the mountain” and south is kelod, or “toward the ocean”.  (In north Bali the actual directions are reversed). Kaja is the most sacred direction – the kaja or northeast corner is where a family temple is located in a house compound. In a formal gathering, especially where ritual is involved, the highest caste members of the community will sit on the kaja side.

·      Equally important are vertical heights.  The higher someone’s caste, the higher they will sit at a gathering. At a temple or a family ceremony, be sure your head is lower than the priest’s.  When you need to walk by someone seated, bend forward a bit and put your right arm out in front of you (as if cutting a path before you).


·      Meeting and interacting with people: The Balinese are very friendly and you are likely to be greeted with questions by practically everyone you meet – even strangers on a bus or street:  “Where are you from?” and “Where are you going?” are the most common greetings. Both children and adults may call out “Where (did) you go Mister?” regardless of gender, to which you can just answer “jalan-jalan” (taking a walk). You may also hear: “How long have you been here?  How long will you stay?  Where are you staying? Are you married? Do you have children?” And sometimes: “How old are you? What kind of work do you do? How much do you get paid? If you have “business” to conduct with someone and you go to their house, you should start off the conversation with small talk about their family, their health, how nice their home is etc. first.  THEN state the purpose of your visit. The art of small talk (basa basi) is a very serious prerequisite to establishing the good relationship needed to continue on to more “businesslike” aspects of interaction.

·      Privacy:  The concept of privacy is practically non-existent – there is no word for it in either Indonesian or Balinese.  You may find yourself surrounded by people when you are busy doing something you consider a private activity – reading, for example. Indonesians feel sorry for anyone who is alone and like to keep close company, at a proximity that may feel uncomfortably “crowded” to a Westerner at times. At the same time Indonesians/Balinese are not as “vocal” about their presence as most westerners, so there can be quite a few people in a space without their being as much of a sense of a crowd as there might be in similar circumstances in a western environment.

·      Eating: When you visit someone’s home you will always be offered something to drink – usually sweet black coffee or tea – and maybe something to eat.   (If you who cannot drink coffee, just say graciously: Ma’af, saya tidak berani minum kopi, literally: “I’m not brave enough” to drink coffee.”  If you do accept a drink or snack, don’t pick it up until you have been offered it at least a couple of times – people will offer by saying “Silahkan” (please). Traditionally Balinese prefer to eat without utensils, using the right hand. They may also eat with a soup spoon and fork – the spoon held in the right hand and used to convey food to the mouth, and the fork held in the right hand and used to help the food into the spoon.  Eating is usually reserved just for eating and not combined with socializing. Often, you will see people taking their plates of food off to opposite ends of the compound to eat alone. These cultural patterns are deeply ingrained. We will discuss how they relate to respect for the rice goddess (Dewi Seri) and to fear of allowing demonic forces to enter the body through getting upset while eating.

·      Bathing: Taking a bath in Bali is different from taking a bath in America or Australia.  There is a vat of cold water in the bathroom and a plastic dipper (or tin can) that you fill and then use to pour water over your body. The floor is usually slanted slightly so that water drains into the floor.  The vat is not a sink but a water container!  Don’t wash in it as you would in a sink at home.  


·      Toilets are usually concrete slabs (sometimes ceramic) with a hole and footmarks on the sides.  You squat down and clean yourself with water, and use the dipper to flush.  Some homes have western style toilets.  Toilet paper is readily available in the shops but is not usually found in bathrooms. It is very important, however, to bear in mind that tampons and pad will not flush down an Indonesian toilet (of any kind). Instead Indonesia/Balinese women wrap them in toilet paper and put them in the wastebasket found in most bathrooms. It is also a good idea to put toilet paper in a covered waste-basked if one is provided in a bathroom; plumbing in many households can be a problem and additional toilet paper added to a toilet may cause difficulties. Since most Indonesians “whipe themselves” with water, not paper, they may not be aware of the Western preference for use of paper in the toilet. ALSO: a toliet is usually called a WC (Way-Say) in Indonesia.

·      Entering temples: To go into a temple (whether or not there is a ceremony going on) you must wear at least a slendang (temple sash).  To attend a ceremony you must wear pakaian adat (customary clothing) which (for women) consists of a kain (sarong worn from waist to ankle), setagen (a kind corset worn round the waist and hips), kebaya (Balinese style blouse). Men wear kain with a saput (shorter piece of cloth worn over the kain), an appropriate shirt and a slendang, optionally (but preferably) a headband called an udeng or destar

·      Tidak Boleh Blues: If you are a woman you must NEVER step into a temple, household shrine or the home of a priestly family if you are menstruating, no matter what you are wearing! This prohibition has earned the joking nickname “tidak boleh blues” – tidak boleh means “not able, not allowed” and is the appropriate response to give if someone asks why you are not participating in a ritual event or avoiding going into a temple. We will discuss anthropological aspects of this prohibition during the semester. For the present please note that this is a very serious prohibition. Infractions against the rule, if discovered, must be ritually purified through a complex and costly ceremony that must be paid for by the offender against the prohibition.

·      Photographs: Taking photos of people is fine, but ask for permission first. The Balinese have been so over-photographed that many are sensitive about it. Use your discretion. If you know the people you are photographing, give them a print later on. You needn’t bet too shy at ceremonies as many people like to have their events recorded. However, here an anthropologisis’s level of sensitivity is required. NEVER stand above or in front of people praying to take their picture (unless you are behind the row or rows of people sitting tailor-fashion to pray, and NEVER stand on any part of a temple platform or building to take a picture. Generally speaking it is best not to have one’s head higher than those of others, unless you are standing behind them. The important thing is to be aware and sensitive.
·      Bargaining: When perusing the marketplace for things to buy, be prepared to bargain as a matter of good form.  Offer half of the asking price and go up from there.  It may also help to find out beforehand how much the item might cost by asking a Balinese friend or a member of your Homestay family. Don’t forget that above all bargaining is supposed to be fun, an occasion for humor and in economic terms a way to achieve a good balance between people with unequal access to economic power.
We even bargain for bemo's fare. The students did it very well